DuClaw Brewing Co. (Hanover, MD)

Typically when I hear the words “sports bar” and “mega mall” the last thing that comes to mind is “craft beer”. DuClaw Brewing is probably aware of this, and definitely doesn’t care, especially since their motto is, “Craft Be Cherished. Rules Be Damned.” I’ll be honest when I say I was originally skeptical as I pulled up to one of DuClaw’s three restaurant locations, situated between a Medieval Times themed restaurant and a large cineplex. That skepticism gave way though as I tried a flight of six beers among their eleven taps, including a nitro.

Euforia, a toffee, nut-brown, is just what it says. A quaffable, malty brown with lots of toffee and caramel, and notes of chocolate. It’s a bit effervescent and has some alcohol warmth, but is quite drinkable and one of the more flavorful and complex beers they offer.

Venom is DuClaw’s staple American Pale Ale, and was being served on their nitro draft. It starts with a citrus nose and is flavored with floral and fruity hops, then finishes off with a nice balance of earthiness and bitterness. The nitro adds a lot of additional creaminess and body to an already big flavored brew.

One of the seasonal taps was Snake Oil, a self-described Imperial Pilsner. Although it does clock in at 7% abv and can thus be described as “imperial”, that’s about all it resembles as far as the name goes. I was expecting a bit more of a carbonic bite as is standard with pilsners, but it never really became evident. It will definitely appeal to the typical sports bar swill served and you could easily knock back more than one, but the high alcohol will definitely catch up with you.

If you want a giant beer with noticeable alcohol that you can pretty much chew on, go for the Misery Wheat Wine. A wheat-based ale similar to a barleywine, but less dark and hoppy, this guy is big and bold. Let it warm a bit so the full flavor of the wheat can come out.

Using similar hops as Venom but with the addition of the ever-popular Amarillo, the Serum Double IPA is another big offering from DuClaw. Big body, herbal hops, drinkable, dangerous.

Sweet Baby Jesus!, a Chocolate Peanut Butter Porter, is probably what several customers have exclaimed when they first tasted (or even heard of) this ale. Inspired by a former winner of their annual H.E.R.O. (Honest, Excellent, Robust, Original) homebrew contest, and originally made with real peanuts (now made with extract), Sweet Baby Jesus is a pretty damn delicious beer. Peanuts are prominent in both the aroma and flavor, and linger in the glass after it quickly disappears. Not a big-bodied porter, but this allows for the chocolate and peanut flavors to be much more expressed.

Although not my vibe for a quintessential craft beer bar, I’m glad places like DuClaw exist and are making good beer. While sitting at the bar on a Wednesday at 3pm, this place was full. And although the customers weren’t your typical craft crew, it was clearly a locally driven clientelle that craved something different. I had a conversation with a gentlemen who compared DuClaw to the unique styles of Dogfish Head, and although their portfolios are quite different, the spirit of adventurous beers is very much shared.

Not everyone finds craft beer the same way, so the microbreweries that begin in hidden nooks with exposed brick walls and crawling with ivy will oftentimes stay just that, hidden. Most often though, beer drinkers need an in-your-face advertising program that delivers unapologetic beers, and that’s exactly what DuClaw does; as you’ll notice the most used adjective in this post is “big”. Beer snobs need not apply…  but they will be missing out.

 

Franklin’s Brewery (Hyattsville, MD)

Consistently eclectic is how I can best describe Franklin’s Restaurant & Brewery (oh… and General Store). At my visit, there were no less than eleven taps, all pouring Franklin’s own brew. There is literally something for everyone, from their lighter Blonde Bombshell and Dubbel Vision, to A Modest ProposALE (an Irish-style stout) and even a sour offering, the Purgatoire.

I started out with Tripel Bliss, a light golden brew, made with yeast from a Trappist monastery in Belgium. Although it checks in at 9% abv this ale is quite drinkable. The typical spices and fruity esters of a tripel are evident, but not overwhelming. It went well with the ham, avocado, asparagus and alfalfa sandwich I had, another eclectically adventurous, yet simple menu item.

The Mama Said Hop You Out double IPA will satisfy the most greedy of hop heads, but will likely been enjoyed by the lupulin-challenged as well. It starts with a big, grassy nose, but drinks without much bitterness and is quite smooth. The smoothness comes from low carbonation and a balanced body that lends well to the big, herbal hop flavor. 

Rubber Chicken Red is a complex ale, with flavors ranging from mild roast and toastiness, to a hint of caramel and sweet, burnt sugar and nuts. Like the other beers on top, it too is smooth and drinkable. Although not quite a session ale at 5% abv, it is Franklin’s lowest alcohol offering outside of their blonde ale, and a couple pints are sure to disappear fairly easily.

Lastly, I tried Purgatoire, an American sour ale with lots of body. The sourness is very evident, and the beer itself has a thick, syrupy quality to it. A bit darker than an amber, flavors such as molasses and a hint of chocolate envelop the palate. It has some similarities to a port wine, and would lend itself well to some barrel aging to balance out the heavier flavors and allow for more of the tartness to take center stage. 

Franklin’s lends itself well to being a neighborly bar, as I saw first hand on this Monday afternoon as four locals who were on a first-name basis emerged at the bar at what was seemingly a regular affair. The beers themselves cater to a wide audience, but not at the expense of sacrificing flavor. This is clearly evident as not one “American Lite Ale” is available on their beer menu. Each beer, although representing their classic styles in flavor and characteristics, could be enjoyed by both newcomers to craft beer as well as the most style-obsessed beer geek and seeker of radical brews. 

These characteristics are carried over into Franklin’s adjoining General Store that has everything from robot-shaped tea infusers to no less than about fifty different hot sauces. A plentiful selection of craft beers in both cold six-packs and large format bombers is located in the back of the store, sure to reek havoc on the wallet of beer connoisseurs (this one included).